Sunday 15 April 2012

The Hairy Bikers, No Ginger Beer, Assam Ginger & American Kombucha

I've been watching The Hairy Bikers' Bakeation series on BBC2 each Tuesday. If you are not familiar with this wonderful programme, Simon King and Dave Myers are spending four months riding 5000 miles on their motorbikes across Europe introducing us to the best of traditional baking, both savoury and sweet. I knew that I was going to enjoy last week's episode in particular as the bikers were scheduled to stop off in Austria, my favourite country and one I love to visit. I wasn't disappointed. One place they stopped was the village of Seckau in the state of Styria. Here, they introduced us to Cafe Konditorei Regner, a family bakery since 1660, and their speciality gingerbread (or 'lebkuchen'). The gingerbread recipe was developed by the current owner and it was demonstrated on the programme by his son, Gregor, who, incidentally, won a gold medal at the International Baking Competition in Calgary, Canada, in 2009. You can see the Gregor Regner part of the programme on YouTube.

There was a most unusual story in Bermuda's The Royal Gazette last week. One of the country's leading soft drinks manufacturers, John Barritt & Son, famous for its Bermuda Stone Ginger Beer, actually ran out of the ginger beer for the best part of a month according to other sources. How did this happen? Barritt's ginger beer is made in Florida from a Jamaican and African ginger concentrate produced in Milton Keynes in the UK. The concentrate is shipped to the US as one of many goods in a container. A recent shipment was delayed by US Customs when a container was impounded whilst other goods were investigated by officials. Up until the end of 2010 the ginger beer was bottled in Bermuda which I assume means that the concentrate was shipped direct.

Green Bee Soda is beverage company from Maine, USA, with a unique selling proposition of making a range of sodas based on wildflower honey. The company made an announcement last week about the launch of a new flavour called Ginger Buzz. This drink contains freshly chopped ginger, coriander and the essential wildflower honey. Let me know what it's like if you are able to try it.

Organic farming is set to be the future according to the Assam state government in India. The Indian Express reported that the state goverment will allocate funding to encourage young people to take up farming and discourage existing farmers from using using chemicals. The range of eligible crops includes ginger and turmeric. The article also stated that Assam is one of India's major producers of ginger. I have read elsewhere that the state produces more than 70 percent of the country's ginger, some of it already organic. Interestingly, nearly 25 percent of Assam's farmland is already organic by virtue of the fact that there has been a shortage of chemical fertilisers.

Karbi Anglong is the largest of the 27 administrative districts in Assam. Four years ago, district officials applied to have Geographical Indication status for locally grown ginger. I don't know whether the status was ever granted but if it was then it confers an element of protection and exclusivity to what many people describe as a distinctive ginger. GIN-FED, the Ginger Growers Co-Operative Marketing Federation in Karbi Anglong, describes the local produce as the world's finest organic ginger. Traditionally, many of the ginger farmers in the district are women.

The Singhasan Hills in Karbi Anglong are said to produce the finest ginger in all India. But this area was the scene nearly ten years ago of an outbreak of violence between the Kuki and Karbi tribal communities over the Kuki production of ginger in the hills.

Last month I reported the story from The Gympie Times regarding the imminent sale of a family dairy farm and the switch to ginger farming. Well, according to The Gympie Times last week, the sell-off was completed successfully. But the latest story mentioned a detail of which I wasn't aware previously. The family already grow ginger on 10 acres of land and produce certified ginger 'seed' for Buderim Ginger.

So, whilst an Australian farmer is hoping to make a living from ginger seed, producers of ginger seed in one particular district of the Indian state of Karnataka are witnessing a dramatic fall in price. The Deccan Herald has reported that with fewer farmers wishing to grow ginger, the price of seed has plummeted from Rs 1,700 per bag to Rs 280. In fact, seed farmers may not even cover the cost of fertilisers and pesticides. It appears that it will be cheaper for the farmers to leave the ginger in the ground.

My understanding of the Indian ginger industry is that ginger is grown in areas which are isolated from and independent of each other. For example, the plight of a small part of the local ginger industry in Karnataka may be completely different to the state of the local ginger industry in Assam or Kerala. Difficulties in one area are not necessarily reflected elsewhere. There are too many factors involved such as variety, terroir, climate and export potential to name but a few.

The Maine Sunday Telegram carried a story about a relatively new start-up business in Portland, Maine. Urban Farm Fermentory (UFF) has introduced a range of alcoholic beverages called Urban Farm Fermentory Kombucha Culture which includes a ginger flavour. Kombucha is made from fermented green and black tea, and sugar. Interestingly, UFF is hoping to use local farmers to grow ginger in hothouses. These new drinks contain less than one percent alcohol.

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